>> There are over 35,000 museums within the United States welcoming over 850 million visitors each year. Did you ever wonder what goes on behind the scenes in museums? Can you imagine the displays and exhibits we all enjoy? Join us as we explore museums and their exhibits from the inside out. Hi I'm Leslie Mueller, welcome to Museum Access, the show that takes you to America's top museums to talk to the experts. Then we go behind the scenes to learn even more, believe it or not, we're in the middle of Los Angeles at an urban ice age excavation site. The La Brea Tar Pits, this museum houses millions in fossils that were discovered right here. These plants, insects and animals were trapped in sticky asphalt over 50,000 years ago. From mammoths, tusks to mouse toes, fossils are excavated, cleaned and sorted for research and display every day. It's the only active ice age excavation site in an urban location in the world. Over 3.5 million fossils have been removed from the tar pits to date, and they're still digging. Today we'll learn about the importance of this particular site, and learn more about a Colombian mammoth named Zedd. Then we'll head to Project 23 for a behind the scenes look at the amazing work that's being done thanks to a discovery during the construction of a new underground garage. And we'll take a behind the scenes look at the fossil labs. So are you ready to take a scientific journey that began during the ice age? Let's go! So Emily, tell me about this museum. It's unbelievable. I've never been to one like this. How did this all start? Well, there aren't very many places like this. So the La Brea Tar pits is actually one of the most important paleontological sites in the whole world. Paleontological? Paleontological. So a site with fossils. So any fossils, lots of things can be fossils, right? Plants can be fossils, insects can be fossils, shells can be fossils. Here we find all of those things, and we also find the fossils of most famously the really big mammals that used to live here during the ice age. So saber tooth cats, and giant ground sloths, and mammoths, and mastodons, and dire wolves, all used to live right here in L.A. and we know that because we find their bones right here in the asphalt seeps in our park. So let's talk about the beginning of the land itself. So the asphalt seeps that we find here have actually been known about for thousands of years. We know that the indigenous tribes in California used to use the asphalt for waterproofing of vessels, and boats, and pots, and baskets, and things like that. But fossils were first discovered here in the late 1800s. People had found large bones here before, but they'd always thought that it was bones of cattle that were here on the ranch or something like that until a scientist who was traveling through saw a bone that turned out to be the saber tooth of a saber tooth cat. And that was when they really recognized that the history of the site went much, much deeper and had a lot to tell science. So the city was kind of built around it fast, fast forward because they felt that it was usable ground still? Well, so Los Angeles, the city developed here for a number of reasons, but one of those reasons is oil, which is of course the reason that we have this site is because of the oil that's underground that seeps up in certain places and creates these very sticky pools that have trapped the plants and animals over the last 50,000 years. So is that what a tar pit would be? So yeah, so when we say tar pits, that's sort of a colloquial term, they're more properly called asphalt seeps. So the liquid that's seeping up, basically, the liquid that's seeping up here is asphalt, which is a very low-grade crude oil, and that comes from this big oil field that's underground that's about 1,000 feet below our feet. And because there's a lot of earthquakes here in the Los Angeles area, sometimes these areas of structural weakness form in the earth and these cracks open up and that oil is able to make its way up to the surface. And when it does, it forms these really relatively shallow pools of asphalt. And that asphalt does two things. So first of all, it's extremely sticky and so it's trapped thousands upon thousands of organisms, plants, animals, big things, small things here over the years. But also, asphalt has the quality of being able to preserve a lot of different types of fossils. So it's very, very unusual to find fossils of plants and bones in the same paleontological site because the types of sediments that preserve one tend to dissolve the other. But asphalt preserves them both. It's also sort of unusual to find big fossils and small fossils together just because the way that those deposits get made is very different, but the asphalt seeps collect everything. And so what that means is that what we have here is one of the best places anywhere in the world to look at an entire ecosystem in the past. Well, I noticed some cones outside and it would say, I think it's like goop or something on it. Are those actually the seeps? I mean, they're still coming up. They're still coming up. So yeah, every day, you know, people walk through the park and sometimes a new seep has opened up in the lawn or in our parking lot or on the sidewalk across the street. And so when we see one, we put a cone there so people know not to step there because once you get it on your, you know, fancy shoes, it's never going to come off. Yeah, well, tell me about some of the exhibits that we're seeing here because we're talking about this sticky tar and I did see a couple exhibits that how are you showing people what that's like? Yeah. So we have, you know, one of our most popular exhibits is actually this very simple interactive where you can pull up on a lever basically and feel just how sticky the asphalt is and just how hard it would be to get out of it because we don't want people, of course, like actually going into the asphalt seeps and getting stuck because that's messy and, you know, hard to rescue but that's a way where people can see both how sticky it is and the difference that an animal with like small feet versus an animal with really big feet when it fell because of course the bigger your feet are, the more surface area that is stuck in that really sticky substance and it's just, it's really hard to believe unless you do it. I think. Well, and just seeing that, the kids loved it and speaking of kids, I've seen a lot of kids running around what kind of programs are there here, are there outreach programs for school children or? Yeah, we have school groups coming through all the time. We reach a hundred thousand school kids a year. I think, I mean, just an incredible number of students and in fact, a lot of grownups that I talk to in L.A. when I say that I work at the Tar Peds, they remember coming here as kids. Oh, I know. So it's an incredibly compelling place for kids because, you know, what child doesn't love a saber tooth cat attacking a giant ground sloth like that. Oh, yeah. But it's like a diorama that moves. Absolutely. That's incredible. Yeah. But, you know, it's a really interesting place for adults to come to because the science that we have here is so unique and so important for understanding what's going on in the world today and a lot of the environmental crisis crises that grownups are concerned about as well. Things like, you know, climate change and human impacts on ecosystems and extinction. These are all stories that are captured in the past at this site because the last fifty thousand years, which is the time period that our fossil record covers, includes the last major episode of global warming as we're coming out of the last ice age. It includes the time when humans first arrived in the Americas and spread out and started interacting with ecosystems and likely hunting certain animals and it includes the most important extinction event of the last sixty five million years, which is when the about two thirds of the large mammals in North America and many other continents all went extinct in a relatively short period of time and that was during this time of overlapping climate change and increasing human population, which is really similar to what we see happening today. Absolutely. So is there research that's actually going on here other than the fossil labs? I saw the fossil labs, but is there climate research going on too? Absolutely. So we have a team of scientists. There are researchers and postdocs and graduate students working here as well as scientists from all over the world that come throughout the year to do studies on these fossils. Again, because this is a record that you can't get pretty much anywhere else in the world. The ability to study the sheer variety of types of fossils and the sheer number of some fossils. You know, this has been a mecca for people studying, say, small scale evolutionary sort of adaptation to climate change for a long time, especially in large carnivores because we have somewhere in the nature of five thousand dire wolves and twenty five hundred saber tooth cats and you don't get numbers like that at what types of sites and mistakes. I would think there would be a challenge with getting those numbers since millions have come out. How do you record all of them? How do you be sure that you've got, do you have archives? Do you record them digitally? What do you do? Well, so all of, we've been excavating here off and on for over a hundred years. And so from the hundred year ago excavations, we have these huge ledger books and where people were just handwriting in, and so we've working with both our collections team and also a team of volunteers that absolute could not, you know, get our work done without our amazing volunteers here that are going through now and digitizing, getting all of this information that's in these hundred year old ledger books into an online database where we can then easily search and say, oh, how many left legs of saber tooth cats do we have? Yeah. Oh my ***. So I see this great fossil lab over my shoulder, what is that? So this is a working research lab that we have and we actually work in there seven days a week. We have staff and volunteers that are cleaning the fossils that we've just brought out of the excavations. They're repairing them if they're broken, gluing pieces back together and doing conservation work on them. So we know that that fossil will be in good shape for scientists to study, not just tomorrow or next week, but a hundred years from now. But it's not just bones and teeth, it's plants, right? Yeah. So it's, you know, you can see the big things that people are working on, but there's actually a whole section of the lab where we're looking at fossils through microscopes because we are going through the dirt that's been collected around those fossils of saber tooth cats and giant sloths and hidden in that dirt are the bones and remains of everything from tiny lizards and birds all the way to the seeds of trees and the fragments and even little bits of insects. And so it's just a really incredible record of what Los Angeles has looked like over the last 50,000 years that these seeps have been coming up in our park. And it's an incredibly important story because things like mammoths and saber tooth cats and dire wolves, as cool as they are, they had huge ranges and these are species that lived over much of North America and often even into Central and South America. And so they don't tell us a whole lot about what Los Angeles looked like, right? But certain species of bushes or insects or songbirds or lizards can actually tell us a lot about what the environment was like right here because these are species that have really narrow environmental requirements. And so if it's too hot or too cold or too wet or too dry, they're not going to live in a place. And so if we want to know exactly what Los Angeles looks like and how that changed, how the ecosystem and the communities changed in response to climate change over the last 50,000 year period of in and out of ice ages, those are the specimens that we really have to be looking at. So that's a big part of the work that we do in the fossil lab as well. Well, I saw something in the fossil lab and I've been hearing about Zed, tell me a little bit about what was this discovery. So we name a lot of our important discoveries. Of course. Zed is a mammoth. Okay. He was found during part of a project, a salvage excavation project called Project 23, which was a series of incredible fossil deposits that were found when the art museum next door to us built a parking garage about 12 years ago. And Zed is a mammoth. And he is the most complete mammoth we've found and a very rare instance where we found most of the bones of a large animal that were mostly in the right position as they would have been in life. So that's got to be rare. It's very rare. It's not rare necessarily at other paleontological sites, but it's very rare here at the tarpets because in the thousands of years that specimens are sitting in the asphalt, they seem to get sort of disarticulated and even jumbled off of that. Yeah. And so you'll find individual bones of a lot of animals and maybe potentially multiple bones of the same animal, but they're not necessarily found close to one another. But Zed was found sort of beautifully laid out because he's actually an example of an animal that died and was washed into a stream bed and buried before the asphalt came in. So he didn't step in an asphalt seep and get stuck. He actually died in more of a normal fossil sort of way, got buried. And then later asphalt came in and helped to preserve his skeleton. And so you can see two of his tusks on display, that are on display here, we've been working on preparing his skull also to come out on exhibit and there are other bits of him around the museum exhibits. Well, I'm anxious to see this project 23, and then I think we'll step into the fossil lab. Absolutely. Absolutely. Yeah. Let's go take a look at it. Thanks, Emily. Sabre tooth cats were as large as African lions, but more heavily built. They relied on stealth rather than speed to hunt and ambush bison, camels, and ground sloths. Scientists are still investigating how these felines use their most memorable feature, their four inch fangs. These sabres may have been used for stabbing and slashing or biting open the soft underbelly of their prey. The American mastodon became extinct about 10,000 years ago. They look similar to mammoths, but were separated by 25 million years of evolution and they show key differences, especially in their teeth. While mammoths had relatively flat teeth, which were great for grinding grass, their main food source, the much smaller mastodon had more pointed teeth, perfect for a diet of twigs and leaves. I was so excited about this behind the scenes segment of this episode, because this is the coolest area right here. Tell me where we are. So this is what we call Project 23. It's our active excavation site. We actually excavate here 361 days a year. We're still pulling fossils out of the ground. And why 23? What's so special about that number? So Project 23 is actually a big salvage excavation from when the art museum next door to us built a big underground parking structure about 12 years ago. And dig a giant hole next to one of the most productive fossil sites in the world. You might expect to find some more fossils, right? So what they found was actually 16 new, never before seen, tarpet deposits, each one full of tens, if not hundreds of thousands of bones, and plant fossils. The company hired a landscaping company that's used to transplanting, say, large fruit trees. And what they did is exactly the same process they used with trees. They pedestaled around the tarpets, built walls around each of the tarpet deposits as they went down, cut in from underneath, built a floor, and then lifted those boxes with an intact tarpet inside, up out of the ground, brought them over to our side of the fence. And so each, the largest one of these weighed about 123,000 pounds. I'm wondering if it's this one. This is a huge one. I mean, yeah. Yeah, this isn't even the biggest one. Really? But because they did that, we're able to actually excavate these deposits exactly as we would any other fossil deposit and take all of the same data, so we still excavate in a grid system. We take the really precise three dimensional measurements on all of the larger bones, and we collect all of the dirt from around those bones that are so important for understanding what the ecosystem looked like over the last several tens of thousands of years here in LA. Well, I'd love to see what it looks like inside, because I know this is a preliminary step to actually going into the fossil lab. So can we take a look at that? Absolutely. Let's go look in a tarpet. Okay, so which crater are we looking at here, Emily? So this is deposit 13 from Project 23, and this has been one of the most incredibly rich deposits. You can just see the jungle fossils that are in here. We've got everything from really big fossils. This is the upper arm bone of a giant ground sloth. We've got a same bone of a saber tooth cat over there. We've got a bunch of bird bones. We've got ribs. We've got sticks all tangled up. And then among it, we have these sediments, these little gravel, public areas. And among those, when we wash the asphalt out of, that's where we're going to find what we call the microfossils, so the seeds and the leaf fragments, the insect bits and the lizard jaws and mouse teeth and all of these really cool, amazing, tiny fossils that tell us so much about what the environment was like here in LA over the past time and how that environment changed and the species in it moved and changed in response to environmental changes over the last 50,000 years. Well, I'm noticing strings here, I don't know what these are for, but I want to know what those are for, and I also want to know how do you go about attacking this? So the strings here, these are grid lines, and these are one meter by one meter squares that we set up, and these allow us to take really precise three dimensional measurements on every fossil that we excavate. And that way, when we're going and asking questions about how did this particular deposit form, where were different fossils in relation to one another, we have all that information at our fingertips and we can basically reconstruct the fossil deposit bone by bone. And what kind of tools are you using to pull it apart? You know, the main tool that we use in a deposit as dense as dense as this is actually dental picks. We actually get used dental picks, donated from local dentist offices, and we use not the sharp pointy edge because we don't want to scratch the bones, but the back curvy edge and we use that to very gently sort of grain by grain scrape away the sediments to reveal the bones underneath. And then to ease it out into some type of, yeah, and then once we've got all of the sediment removed from around a fossil, we put it in a bag with all its information, and then it goes into the fossil lab and they take it from there. Well, I'm dying to see that too, so thanks so much, this is incredible. [Music] Paleontologists discovered and started excavating Pit 91 in 1915 over 100 years ago. It was the 91st hole dug by early paleontologists. The deposit was so rich in fossils that they still dig here every summer. Digging at Pit 91 nearly doubled the number of species known from the tar pits. You can watch real paleontologists excavate real fossils from the gloopy black asphalt and learn how scientists use these specimens to study what Los Angeles was like 25,000 years ago during the Ice Age. [Music] This is one of our most exciting finds from Project 23. It's Zed, our Colombian mammoth skull. It's still in the field jacket positioned upside down. These are where his tusks would have come out. These are his two upper teeth, his cheekbones, and the base of his skull where it connected to his neck. This 40,000 year old incisor tooth, or tusk, belongs to Zed, the most complete Colombian mammoth ever excavated at the La Brea tar pits. A 40,000 year old tooth is pretty fragile. When Zed was removed from the ground, his tusk and other fossilized remains were encased in protective plaster and foam jackets like this one. These jackets were then transported to the fossil lab where they were opened so they could be cleaned and studied. So this is a skull of another animal. This is the American lion, so along with the cave lions in Europe, these were the biggest cats that have ever lived. They were quite enormous, and the teeth, yes, and highly carnivorous, so these were animals that you definitely would have wanted to stay away from back in the past. And how many of these do you have? I see shelves and shelves of this. Yeah, so we found probably in the nature of dozens, if not hundreds of American lions, but nothing compared with our most famous animal, the Sabretooth cats. We've seen a lot of museums together, right, but this complex is amazing. To think that the unearth remains of plants, insects, and animals from the last 50,000 years could be so relevant today, it's mind-boggling. The La Brea tar pits continues to provide a gateway to the ice age and help us understand the world around us. Thanks for joining us on Museum Access, where every visit is an adventure. I'm Leslie Mueller, see you next time. [music] Made possible by TFI Envision, the connection to conversion agency. Palomino Restaurant Group, 25 years of creative cuisine. ML Capital Partners, building the businesses of tomorrow, today.